Gutters, leaks and keeping water out

How water gets into a house through the roof

A roof sheds water as long as every layer overlaps the one below it. Shingles, underlayment and flashing are all lapped so water runs down and off. Leaks happen where that overlap breaks. Common causes include a shingle lifted or torn by wind, a nail that has backed out, a cracked seal around a pipe, or a joint where the roof meets a wall or chimney.

In Ohio, the weather works on those weak points all year. Spring and summer storms push rain sideways, and strong wind lifts shingle tabs. Winter brings repeated freeze and thaw. Water that gets into a small gap freezes, expands and opens the gap a little more. Snow can sit on the roof for days and melt slowly, which gives water time to find a way in.

Water also travels once it is inside. It can enter at a chimney, run along a rafter or the top of the ceiling, and drip several feet away. That is why a ceiling stain is often not directly under the problem. Finding the source of a roof leak covers how to trace a leak from the attic.

Flashing and where leaks start

Flashing is the metal, and sometimes rubber or membrane, that seals joints a shingle cannot cover on its own. You will find it:

• around chimneys, with step flashing up the sides and counterflashing set into the mortar
• where a roof meets a sidewall or a second-story wall
• in valleys, where two roof slopes meet
• around plumbing vent pipes, exhaust vents and skylights
• along the drip edge at the eaves and rakes

On older Ohio houses, chimney flashing is a frequent trouble spot. Mortar joints wear out and counterflashing pulls loose. Earlier repairs often relied on roofing cement smeared over the gap. Cement can hold for a while, but it dries, cracks and lets water back in. Rubber boots around plumbing vents also break down in sun and cold, and they can crack years before the shingles around them wear out.

You can spot some of these problems from the ground with binoculars. Look for rust, gaps, bent metal or heavy tar patches. A close inspection on the roof is a job for a roofer, especially on steep or wet roofs. When flashing is the problem, it can often be handled as a roof repair without replacing the whole roof.

What gutters and downspouts are for

Gutters collect the water coming off the roof and send it somewhere safe. When they work, you hardly notice them. When they clog, sag or pull away from the house, water spills over the edge and lands where it does damage. It runs against the fascia, gets behind the siding, and pools along the foundation and in basement window wells.

Ground conditions in much of Ohio make this more important. Many areas have dense clay soil that drains slowly and swells when wet. Water dumped at the base of a wall tends to sit there and press against the foundation. A downspout that empties right next to the house can mean a wet basement after a heavy spring rain.

Watch for these signs:

• water pouring over the front of the gutter during a storm
• gutters pulling away from the fascia or sagging between hangers
• standing water, or plants growing in the gutter
• downspouts that end at the foundation with no extension or splash block
• staining or peeling paint on the fascia right behind the gutter

Gutter maintenance through the seasons lays out a cleaning and inspection routine.

Ice dams in Ohio winters

An ice dam forms when snow on the upper roof melts, runs down and refreezes at the colder eave. The ridge of ice grows, and meltwater backs up behind it. That water can get under the shingles and into the wall or ceiling. Lake-effect snow makes ice dams more common in northeast Ohio, but any part of the state can get them during a cold stretch with snow on the roof.

The usual cause is heat escaping from the living space into the attic. Warm attic air melts the snow from underneath while the overhang stays cold. Older homes are especially prone to ice dams if they have thin attic insulation, unsealed gaps around light fixtures and attic hatches, or blocked soffit vents.

Clogged gutters do not cause ice dams on their own. A gutter full of ice does add weight, though, and it can pull loose from the fascia.

These steps help:

• seal air leaks into the attic and add insulation where it is thin
• keep soffit and ridge vents open so the roof deck stays cold
• install a waterproof underlayment along the eaves when the roof is replaced
• after heavy snow, use a roof rake from the ground to pull snow off the lower few feet of the roof

Do not chip at ice with a hammer or climb onto an icy roof. Heat cables can help in specific trouble spots, but they need to be installed carefully. If water is already coming inside, call a roofer.

Fascia and soffit rot

The fascia is the board behind the gutter along the roof edge. The soffit is the underside of the overhang. On older Ohio homes both are often wood, and sometimes they are wrapped in aluminum. Gutter overflow, a missing drip edge or ice backing water up at the eave can all keep the fascia wet until it starts to rot. Aluminum wrap can hide that rot for years.

Watch for these signs:

• gutters that will not stay tight no matter how often the hangers are reset
• wood that feels soft or crumbles when you press a screwdriver into it
• peeling paint, dark staining or open gaps at the corners
• birds, bees or squirrels getting into the soffit

Rotted fascia should be replaced before new gutters go up, because the hangers need solid wood to hold. Check the roof edge at the same time. A missing or short drip edge lets water wick behind the gutter and onto the board. If the rot has reached the roof decking or rafter tails, call a roofer or carpenter.

A maintenance calendar for Ohio homes

Early spring, after the last hard freeze

• Walk around the house and check the roof with binoculars for missing or lifted shingles and loose flashing.
• Clear winter debris and seed pods from the gutters, and check that the downspouts run freely.
• On a sunny day, look in the attic for daylight, stains or damp insulation.

Late spring and summer

• After big storms, look for missing shingles, dented gutters and shingle granules washing out of the downspouts.
• Trim branches that hang over or rub against the roof.

Fall, once most leaves are down

• Clean the gutters again. In neighborhoods with a lot of trees, this is the most important cleaning of the year.
• Make sure downspout extensions carry water several feet from the foundation.
• Check that the attic vents are clear before winter.

Winter

• Watch for icicles and ice ridges along the eaves. They point to heat loss into the attic.
• If ice dams are a known problem, use a roof rake from the ground after heavy snow.
• After a thaw, check the ceilings near outside walls for new stains.

When to call a roofer

Ladder work, walking on a roof and anything above the first story carry real risk. A wet or mossy roof is slippery. Leave these jobs to a roofer:

• any active leak. If water is dripping near a light fixture, shut off that circuit at the panel first.
• flashing work around chimneys, walls and skylights
• soft spots in the roof deck that you notice from the attic
• damage after hail or high wind, which may also involve an insurance claim
• ice dams that are already pushing water inside

A good roofer will show you photos of what they find. They should also tell you whether the problem needs a repair or means the roof is near the end of its life. If you are not sure what you are looking at, get in touch and describe what you see.

Frequently asked questions

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